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Switch S1 Pour Pb


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Posted

Je viens de "craquer" sur une Squier Precision Bass d'occaze.

Le micro a été changé et elle sonne pas mal, plus simple et moins cher... tu meurs !

J'aimerai monter un switch du type S1 série/parrallèle, histoire d'avoir 2 sons.

Si quelqu'un d'entre vous a le shéma, je suis preneur.

Merci

Posted

Franchement, ça n'apporte pas grand chose pour une Precision.

Si tu veux de la variété, il vaudrait mieux installer un filtre passe haut.

Posted (edited)

Peut-être, mais je peux toujoure essayer.

Donc si quelqu'un a le shema serie/parrallèle pour Precision Bass, pensez à moi.

Merci

Edited by larry
Posted

Un filtre passe-haut...je connaissais pas pour une basse.

Le but est donc d'obtenir, avec la tonalité+le filtre passe haut, un grave/aigu en restant en passif ?

Ai-je correctement agité mes neurones ?

Posted

Filtre passe haut+filtre passe bas, c'est ce qu'il y a sur les G&L à défaut de véritables corrections actives. Ca donne une tonalité passive qui coupe les aigu et l'autre les graves. Mais le série/parallèle moi je trouve que c'est plutôt une bonne idée, c'est ce que j'aurais fait aussi.

Posted
Filtre passe haut+filtre passe bas, c'est ce qu'il y a sur les G&L à défaut de véritables corrections actives.
:blink:

Toutes les G & L (hormis la JB2) sont actives et offrent un EQ 2 bandes avec boost graves/aigus.

Ta Tribute est différente ? Elle n'est pas active ?

Posted (edited)

Toutes les G&L sont actives mais l'eq est PASSIVE !! Non mais !

Sur le site officiel nulle part ils ne parlent de boost de fréquences, sauf pour le préset qui booste les aigus (mais c'est un switch) :

PICKUPS 2 G&L Magnetic Field humbucking pickups

BODY WOOD Alder on Standard and all solid finishes, Swamp Ash on all Premier finishes

NECK WOOD Hard Rock Maple with Rosewood or Maple fingerboard

NECK RADIUS 12" (304.8mm)

NECK WIDTH AT NUT 1 3/4" (44.5mm)

TUNING KEYS Custom G&L "Ultra-Lite" with aluminum tapered string posts

BRIDGE G&L Saddle Lock

CONTROLS G&L Tri-Tone active/passive electronics, 3-way mini-toggle pickup selector, series/parallel mini-toggle, preamp control mini-toggle (off/on/on with high end EQ boost)

FINISH Standard finishes included

OTHER Chrome hardware; no pickguard; G&L molded hardcase included

Features: 10

This is a 1999 L2000, special ordered with their jazz bass style (#6) neck, which I prefer to the wider, flatter standard neck. It was hand made in California, and took about five months to get (it took extra long because they screwed up a few times). Other reviewers have outlined the basics of the many controls on this model. I'll add three things: first, don't be intimidated . . . once you get familiar with the controls they really feel logical and elegant. If you're like me, you'll probably just have two or three settings that work for you. The toggle switches make it VERY fast to change settings. Second, the active/passive switch is a very nice tone control. It changes the character of the instrument from an organic, vintage kind of sound to a more up-front, aggressive, cutting sound. It does this without any coloration; it just boosts the output and buffers the signal and lets more highs and mids get through. Third, something a lot of people don't realize about this instrument: the tone controls are passive (bass and trebble roll-off), but the pickups are designed with hot highs and lows, so the instrument sounds flatest with some degree of bass and trebble cut. Very clever--this allows the passive circuit to behave like an active circuit (and gives you tone controls with the preamp on or off). A final note . . the series/parallel switch is helpful if you find yourself playing through a vintage tube amp that adds tons of fatness and low end. This bass does not need the help . . in series mode these amps make it boomy and muddy to my ears, so you can compensate quickly by switching to parallel. This thins the sound, adds highs, and removes lows, and gives you lots of clarity even through a huge old SVT.

(extrait pris sur Harmony Central)

Bref, ce n'est pas le sujet, mais j'insiste quand même sur le fait qu'un switch série/parallèle ça doit être sympa pour une précision.

Edited by n0n0

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